Your Go-To Fusing Guide
18 July 2018
Posted in: Good to Know, H&F Presents
Interlinings, interfacings, fusibles or fusing’s are the invisible framework of a garment. They are a textile that is either sewn in or fused on between layers of fabric to improve the performance of the outer fabric during the manufacturing process, and the aftercare treatment.
What is fusing and why do we need it?
Interlinings contribute to the appearance, durability, comfort and quality of the finished product. They are used to eliminate stretch, stabilise and emphasise such details like collars, cuffs, waistbands, jacket fronts, pockets and vents.
They are available in various weights, thicknesses and construction (woven or knit). When selecting an interlining it must be appropriate for the garment design, fabric type, expected performance and end use.
The use of fusible interlinings can have significant advantages over using a sew-in interlining. Here are some of the reasons why:
• Initial presentation.
• Appearance in wear and cleaning.
• Shape retention and crease recovery.
• Improved dimensional stability in the outer fabric.
• Reduction of stitch puckering/pulling.
• Helps ease handling during garment production, therefore saving time/labour.
• Keeps a more consistent garment quality during reproduction.
Don’t know where to start with fusing? We have you covered with our basic guide to choosing the right fusing for your fabric. Read our tips below.
Light - Medium Weight Fabric Fusing’s
Weight: 22 grams
Out of all our fusing’s B200 is the lightest and the glue dot on this is almost invisible. It gives your fabric a bit of structure with a barely there feel.
Weight: 34 grams
Our 1230 is a multi-elastic knit fusing. It is still exceptionally light in weight with a soft handle and it will give your garment added structure.
Both B200 and 1230 are light in weight and are designed for very sheer fabrics that are normally difficult to fuse.
Weight: 40 grams
The 1708 is our top all-round fusing as it allows heavier fabric to remain soft while still maintaining its drape. It will provide a bit of structure to your garment.
What are these fusing’s suitable for?
All are ideal for dresses, blouses, collars, cuffs or reinforcement for transparent garments. It comes down to how structured you want your garment to feel after it has been fused. It is also perfect for your lighter fabrics such as your chiffons, viscose’s or silks.
Weight: 55 grams
The most common shirt fusing that is best applied on the collars, cuffs, neck band or button panels to give a sharp look. The knitted top fuse dot can withstand a 60-degree wash.
What is this fusing suitable for?
Ideal for use in cuffs, collars, facings and as an all over backing on fabrics that need stability. Suitable on classic and modern fabrics (e.g. cottons or polyesters), stretch fabrics, non-iron fabrics as well as denim, flannels and seersuckers.
Weight: 50 grams
The go-to fusing for jackets, it suits light to heavy weight fabrics. The special feature of this interlining is its ability to cope with shrinkage in fabrics due to its flexible weave.
Weight: 90 grams
The heaviest fusing we have available is our heavy-duty jacket fusing. A fusible interlining for use in medium to heavy weight jackets, it provides volume to the outer fabric but not the weight of the fabric. This weight is preferred when requiring a fully tailored and structured look. Particularly common in men’s jackets.
Where are these fusing’s suitable for?
Suitable for use on jacket fronts, facings, collars and lapels when requiring a tailored looking garment.
If you are still unsure on what fusing to use for your garment, you can email us with information about your fabric and garment, or you can make an appointment to come and visit our showroom to look at the full fusing range.